U Bulinu

The Dilemma of the Horns

The last of our three evening restaurants proved to be downright Kafkaesque. Not the morbid Kafka of the fiction but the social Kafka that Max Brod writes about so vividly—a man who enjoyed a good joke and laughed heartily at it. If you go to the saga page in their website, you will find a totally fictional tale of the restaurant’s foundation and evolution, complete with a moving banner of historical photographs of its horned ancestors. Metamorphosis indeed!


In the restaurant, this theme was carried out in the portraits as well. You can see a very respectable horned madam presiding prominently over the proceedings from the wall in the next dining room. The quixotic decoration extends to the lighting as well. Overhead is an ominous contraption that might wipe us all out at any moment.



We began with more of the wonderful Kozel dark beer and then shared a Traditional Czech potato and mushroom soup. These Prague restaurants that specialize in hearty meat dishes don’t start you off with weak dishwater.



For a main course I continued with yet another generous carnivore dish. Such quantities don’t come as cheap in London and aren’t so robustly sauced. This time it was a Quarter of roast duck on a bed of red cabbage, with a generous helping of the omnipresent dumplings.



Mary's main course was Traditional Czech roasted rabbit leg, with spinach and potato dumplings. Once again, with a rich thick sauce and generous with the dumplings.





Two excellent deserts this time—the hot raspberries and vanilla ice cream that we should have had the night before, and an excellent little bramble and apple pie, with delicious and well-formed pastry.



Then back to the hotel. Ignorance had cost us two taxi rides—the first, arranged at the hotel, for a fixed fare that turned out to be twice what we paid on a meter coming back. If we had enquired, we would have learned that there was a tram between the city center and the restaurant. Next time . . .

The English menu is not included on their website, so I’ve attached a photo here. Click to enlarge



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